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WHAT TO DO AND WHEN This article is from the Beginners
Handbook. The very thought of planning ahead is revolting to some, while others lead well ordered lives and must put things down on paper, perhaps a year in advance. WHY A CALENDAR? A number of new chrysanthemum growers have asked whether it would be possible to provide a calendar of events - something that would be looked at in order to be made aware of what should be done at any period. Such a calendar, if very specific, would be quite complicated in order to be of use to growers situated in all latitudes. The reason, of course, is that the seasonal changes in temperature and light vary with the latitude. Further complications arise when changes in altitude are taken into consideration. The following program and schedule provided here are, therefore, very general in order to be of some use to most growers. JANUARY-FEBRUARY This is the planning season. Decide on how many plants to grow and where to grow them. If not on the mailing list of chrysanthemum nurseries, write for at least one catalogue of available cultivars. MARCH Study your catalogue and place your order for plants. Other garden supplies should also be arranged for at this time. APRIL-MAY Beds should be prepared and made ready to receive the new plants. Add fertilizer as recommended in the soil test report. Cuttings may be started at any time in this period. When the new plants arrive, they may be placed in three-inch pots using a good potting soil. If the plants appear wilted, they should be placed in warm water for three or four hours prior to potting. Keep potted cuttings away from drafts and direct sunlight for 4 to 6 days to allow good root development. When danger from frost has passed, the plants may be placed in the beds. JUNE All plants should be set out at least by the end of this month. The tips on
garden cultivars and disbuds should be pinched after four leaves or so of new
growth has appeared. JULY Until the end of the season, garden and cushion types should be sprayed every two weeks for insect control and watered when needed. A final pinch should be made near the middle of the month. For disbud plants, spraying, watering, and continued support should be performed. A final pinch should be made about 100 days before blooms are desired. Remove axillary growth except for two or three stems. Fertilize weekly. AUGUST Assume blooms are desired by November 1. Eleven week response plants should then be shaded beginning August 12 to 15. Ten-week response groups - start shading August 19 to 22 Nine-week response groups - start shading August 26 to 29 Adjustments to this schedule may be made based on the number of days plus or minus the November I desired bloom date. Fertilize weekly. SEPTEMBER Shading, if practiced, may generally be discontinued after the hours of daylight become less than 13 hours. Inspect plants for those showing terminal clusters of buds. Unless being grown for terminal sprays, remove all buds except for the large center one. Continue to provide water, weekly fertilizing, insect control, grooming, and plant support. Prune unwanted growth. OCTOBER In areas where frost, wind, and rain are a hazard to blooms, protective covering should be installed. Inspect developing blooms for misplaced florets, and remove damaged buds. leaves, and blooms. Fertilizing can be discontinued. In northern areas, as show dates approach, study the available show schedules and review the probable show-quality blooms which you may have. Attach paper tag with temporary class numbers to the stems of worthy blooms. This will save a great deal of time later on. If one is to exhibit, cut blooms and condition several days prior to a show if one is to exhibit. In southern states the natural bloom development will be several weeks behind northern states. Similar steps in preparation should be taken. NOVEMBER Sometime during this month or early December when all blooms have either matured or the plants have been damaged by the frost, the beds should be prepared for overwintering. Plants should be cut back to about four inches above the soil. Where winters are severe, disbud and garden type plants may be covered with straw or evergreen boughs after the first frost. When a cold frame is available the more valuable plants may be transferred to this facility for overwintering. Removed chrysanthemum material should be buried or burned as a disease-control measure. DECEMBER This month is relaxing time. Review your records for ideas to improve next year's program. Locate a local chapter and join the National Chrysanthemum Society today. |