Frequently Asked
Questions (FAQs)
•
When
is the best time to plant garden mums?
•
Where
can I get garden mums?
•
Do mums
have special soil requirements?
•
How
much water do mums need?
•
How do
I keep my mums short and bushy?
•
Will my
mums come back next year?
•
Will
the mums I buy in the fall come back next spring?
•
Can I
revitalize my old mums?
•
Are
“football” mums really mums?
• Where can I get “football” mums?
When is the best time to plant garden mums?
Spring!
When mums are planted in the spring after the last frost, they have plenty of
time to develop a substantial root system that will lead to good blooms and healthy
plants in future years.
In
recent years, garden centers and the large home stores (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) have begun to offer mum plants in the spring.
Local chapters of the National Chrysanthemum Society often have spring plant
sales. See our home page <link> for a list of NCS chapters.
Do mums have special soil requirements?
Not
really. Mums can be very happy in well prepared, slightly acid garden soil. As
with most plants, mums appreciate well-drained soil with lots of organic
matter, such as compost. Adding some standard garden fertilizer (such as
As much as you can give them. Mums will thrive in full sun conditions, given
adequate moisture. About three hours of direct sunlight is about the minimum
that will produce bushy plants and plenty of flowers.
Early
in the season mums should be watered like your lawn, about one inch a week. As the
plants increase in size and summer brings warmer temperatures, your watering
should increase proportionately. By flowering time in September and October,
watering three times a week would not be too much.
How do I keep my mums short and bushy?
In
the last several years, hybridizers have been introducing varieties that remain
low to the ground and form bushy balls of flowers with little effort on your
part. However, a little pruning will produce even better results. Early in the
season, when the plants are about 6” tall, pinch off or prune about 1” from the
top of each stem. This will cause the plant to vigorously produce side
branches. When those new stems are about 6” tall (the whole plant is now almost
a foot tall), pinch off or prune about 1” from the top of each stem. Again,
this will force new growth from each stem. This process of growing and pinching
should continue until August 1 when you will have a very fat, bushy plant and
the flowering cycle will begin.
Yes.
If you added granular fertilizer to the soil when you planted your mums in the
spring, you might make one or two applications of water soluble fertilizer
(such as Miracle Gro) over the summer. If your mums
are older than one year, apply water soluble fertilizer once a month throughout
the growing season.
Will my mums come back next year?
They
should. As perennials, mums are genetically programmed to lose their top growth
to the frost, go to sleep for the winter, and wake up with the warm
temperatures of the spring. However, you can help the process. When the foliage succumbs to frost, cut the plant back to the
ground. Apply a thick layer of mulch (chopped leaves, pine needles,
etc.) over the plants. When spring arrives and the threat of frost is over,
pull back the mulch and w
Will the mums I buy in the fall come back next
spring?
Maybe.
Flowering mums planted in the fall don’t consistently make it through the
winter. The plants don’t have the time (or the inclination, since they are
working hard on flowering) to extend their roots beyond the pot-bound root ball
into the soil. The fragile roots are damaged by frequent cycles of freezing and
thawing over the winter. Without a good root system, the plant dies. Some
growers have had success by wintering mums in a cool, dry location (garage,
porch, etc.) that doesn’t freeze. After cutting off the foliage, keep these
plants barely moist throughout the winter (watering lightly once a month).
Expose them to warmer temperatures and more water once the threat of frost is
past. Plant in the ground after the last frost.
There
are two ways to multiply your mums. 1) If your plants have been in the ground
for a number of years and have formed a large clump, just get out the shovel in
the spring when the mums are just beginning to grow and divide the plant into
pieces about a foot wide. Plant each piece in a new hole with some organic
matter and fertilizer. 2) Regardless of the age on your mums, they can be
propagated through cuttings. When a new stem is about 6” tall, break off or cut
the top 4”. Dip the cut end into some rooting hormone (this isn’t absolutely
necessary) and plant the cutting into a pot with sterile potting soil or a mix
of sand and peat moss. Keep the pot moist (not wet) and warm. There should be
bright light, but no direct sun. In about two weeks the cuttings will have
formed roots. Before planting the cuttings in the outdoor bed, gradually acclimate
them to brighter light.
You
bet! Mums seem to do best when they are growing on roots that are new or not
more than a few years old. To put a spark in you mum bed, make new plants
through cuttings (see: How do I make more mums?) and plant them in a newly
prepared spot with organic matter and fertilizer.
Are “football” mums really mums?
Yes
they are. The large incurving or reflexing blooms
that you see in florist shops or at National Chrysanthemum Society shows are
just hybridized varieties of hardy garden mums that have been bred for size,
shape, or color.
Where can I get “football” mums?
“Football” mums (exhibition
mums) can be purchased from local chrysanthemum societies <link> or by
mail from several suppliers. Kings Mums (web address/phone) has an extensive
offering of exhibition and garden mums in many colors and shapes.